Yes, Marc by Marc Jacobs undoubtedly embraced the military trend. Army surplus green and trench coats are fundamental staples within the closets of any World War II hero. Dark hunting caps mysteriously shadowing the eyes of Jacobs’ femme fatales would woe countless campy Humphrey Bogart-like character. What separates Jacobs from other designers is his decision to juxtapose youth culture, within otherwise solemn militant clothing.
The show opens with Karen O’s emphatic, yet child-like voice singing “Capsize” – which is quickly recognizable from this year’s Spike Jonze film, Where the Wild Things Are. The selection of fuzzy, teen-inspired songs thoroughly brings out the youthfulness of the collection. The Drums, a hazy and playfully kitschy band is responsible for “Let’s Go Surfing”. The music fits perfectly within Marc Jacobs’ world. The seriousness of a neutral green cardigan can be playfully transformed by un-tucking it. The satirical nature of a jacket or trench coat is exaggerated by lengthening it. Bold red-stripes vividly transform a model’s look in contrast with neutral pants.
Jacobs’ collection is reminiscent of what the youth of World War II would’ve worn if they had listened to Wavves or Jesus and Mary Chain. A dash of colorful enthusiasm mixed within an otherwise austere wardrobe. On a purely superficial level, the collection can be waved away as just “following the trend”. In closer examination, Jacobs’ aesthetics has always been about ironically embracing youth culture.